Tag Archives: Asis Mukherjee

The Mysterious Singalila National Park by Asis Mukherjee

“No autumn breeze,
No falling leaves,
Not even time for birds to
Fly to southern skies…..”

In fact it’s just like another ordinary day of autumn when those lines of the song of Stevie Wonder haunted me time and again. I knew the reason behind it as well as the answer also. I would have to breathe in the lap of the Himalaya for a couple of days. So I made up my mind to set out for the hills and before booking a ticket I just knocked on my senior colleague cum friend Sunil Sen and he also stood up immediately on one toe at my proposal. So we two set out one day evening after office hours heading for Sikkim, my favourite destination for a week. October already brought the fragrance of “Durga Puja” in the air. But before that, we started with a tight itinerary so that we could come back home before the festival. The reason for choosing our destination to Sikkim was not only because of our short schedule but also every time I had the scope of exploring new destinations in this small state as well. This time I also had a plan to explore the forest namely “The Rhododendron Sanctuary” in Sikkim and “The Singalila National Park“ in West Bengal. Both the forests are inseparable part of the Singalila range. Sunil didn’t visit Sikkim earlier though he trekked for a long time. So on the train I briefed him on my idea in a nutshell.

Must Read: Top 20 National Parks in India That You Need to Visit!

Next morning our train reached New Jalpaiguri Station in time. We came out and took a rickshaw to the SNTC bus stand at Siliguri. We came to the bus stand and booked two tickets for Jorethang, a small town at the confluence of the Rammam and Rangeet rivers, in the South Sikkim District. After having tea and snacks we took our seats. The bus started at eight in the morning and normally it took three hours and a half though the distance was around ninety kilometres only. So we expected to reach our destination around twelve by the latest. Sunil asked me what’s next. I told him, “Let’s see after reaching the destination.” Though I told him my plan, yet he got confused at every turn of the journey. He was perhaps not accustomed to the flexibility of my schedule of journey. In fact I myself was not sure whether we would get any transportation from Jorethang to Ribdi, immediately after reaching there. I had a plan that if we didn’t get any transportation today itself we would stay there and next morning we should proceed further. In fact I used to keep at least one reserve day in my journey schedule for uncertainty. Our bus dropped us off at the bus stand at around twelve and after descending from the bus we looked for the bus for Ribdi. Luckily we found the only bus bound for Ribdi was waiting there. We bought two tickets for ourselves and went to a restaurant on the opposite side of the bus stand for our lunch. The bus started at 1.30 p.m. for Ribdi. The distance was around forty five kilometres. But due to the condition of the road it would take around two hours. The bus took us via Sombaria and Daramdin to Ribdi. Ribdi (8000 feet) is a picturesque remote village in the southwest Sikkim perched on the slope of a hill. We came out from the bus and brought down our rucksacks from the rooftop. I began to march along the foot track down the slope followed by Sunil. I entered a house. I knew the owner beforehand. Previous year I came here with an eye to going to Versey along with my two senior friends. Then we put up here. Though Versey has nowadays become popular among tourists and trekkers, by that time there was no hotel or lodging here. I had to manage to stay at the home of a local man for one night before we started for Versey the next morning. Sunil might have been a bit astonished. But when I introduced him to the owner of the house he felt comfortable. We were given a room where we put our rucksacks. I asked my host to give us a cup of tea and also requested him to arrange a guide who could lead us through the dense forest of the Singalila National Park and the Rhododendron Sanctuary. After having our tea we all three set out for a troll with an eye to getting a reliable guide. Our host assured me that he would come back soon with a man and introduce me to him. So I felt relaxed and told Sunil not to be worried. From here one could see the trail of Ramnam on the opposite bank of the Ramman river. We could listen to the gurgling sound of the Rammam river, coming from the gorge but we couldn’t see its flow. After a short stroll we returned to our nest and found our host had already brought a young man who would accompany us on the next few days’ trek. We talked to him and told him that he would not only guide us to reach Phalut crossing the great Singalila Ridge but also carry a light load of our tent and packed food for us for a couple of days. He gladly accepted our proposal and after having tea he assured to turn up next morning and he left. After his leaving we rearranged our rucksacks. Our host called us for dinner and we finished it at around 7.30 p.m. As usual we went to bed early.

Must Read: A Rainy Day Out by Asis Mukherjee

Early in the morning we woke up at the call of our host with a steaming cup of tea. We finished our tea and got ready. Meanwhile our guide also turned up. We paid some money to our host and bid goodbye on our way to Varsey(10,100 feet). This is a motorable road under construction upto Hilley. So we walked very comfortably. The forest rest house at Hilley provided us with tea and a splendid view of Mount Kanchendzonga. After a brief pause we started our journey again. From here Versey is only around five kilometres. The trail passed through the dense forest of Silver Fir,Hemlock, Magnolia and different varieties of Rhododendron. But this is not the season of bloom. In April and May the Rhododendron creates a riot of colours in the forest. In another two hours of enjoyable walking we reached Versey. There’s a beautiful lodge aptly named “The Rhododendron Resort” or “Gurascunj” , the Nepalese term of Rhododendron. We checked into the rest house and asked the caretaker to prepare lunch for all of us. In the month of April and May Versey fills your heart with the beauty of varieties of flowers along with the vast view of the “Sleeping Buddha” or Mount Kanchendzonga. But now though it’s not the time to bloom, we were blessed with the view of a great range of the Himalaya from the east of Bhutan to the far west of Nepal covering a wide panoramic view of Kanchendzonga to Mount Everest. Sunil got awe struck in the vastness of nature. We soon came to reality at the call of the caretaker to have our lunch. After lunch we retired to our bed to rest for a couple of hours. Sunil perhaps didn’t enjoy such a comfortable trek earlier. So he appreciated my selection of the trip. After a couple of hours rest, we came out and sat in the courtyard of the forest rest house to behold the sunset. Indeed it’s so beautiful that I couldn’t express my feelings in words. Only the beholder can preserve his feelings in the niche of his heart. After the sunset when all the birds went to their nest, we also came to our room and asked the caretaker to prepare tea. With a steaming cup of tea we had another round of discussion with our guide. He suggested that next morning we would set out for “Thulo Dhap” , a good location for camping amidst this “Rhododendron Sanctuary” and the day after tomorrow we would proceed to cross the Singalila Ridge. After a while the caretaker called us for dinner. We finished our dinner and went to bed.

We woke up at the call of our guide. We told him to call us before dawn so that we could see the sunrise from Versey. Different places of the Himalaya always give you a different experience of watching the sunrise. As if the same sun brings different colours of dawn. Each experience is invaluable. We came outside. Everywhere a calmness prevailed. Gentle wind was blowing from the north. Birds were yet to come out of their nests. The entire valley was still under the curtain of a black sheet. Gradually the first sunbeam touched the head of the “Sleeping Budha” and one after another the peaks of the Himalaya smiled in delight. The black curtain gradually drifted and the entire surroundings woke up to the songs of the birds of different varieties. We came back with soothing tranquillity to our room to pack our rucksacks. The caretaker served the first round of tea. We were getting ready for our journey to the unknown. After having our breakfast and another round of tea we packed our rucksacks and took a packed lunch on the way. We paid the caretaker and came out of the resthouse. We began to follow our guide along the foot track and entered into the forest of the “Rhododendron Sanctuary”. Today again we had to descend from 10,100 feet to 8,000 feet to reach “Thulo Dhap”. It’s a meadow amidst the jungle. There are so many small meadows like this in this area. Local people used to bring their cattles and sheeps there for grazing. As we proceeded through the forest it became more and more dense. But we both were just following our guide who was leading ahead. Both of us couldn’t understand how he was on the right track. However we had to depend on him. After descending a few kilometres abruptly we came to an open field. Our guide told me this was “Thulo Dhap”. But so far we walked for two hours and a half. I told him ” we should have our lunch here and after taking some rest we should proceed further. Because we have to ascend again from here more than 11,000 feet if we have to cross the Singalila Ridge. So if we can proceed further it will be easier to cover the rest of the trek next day”. Sunil also supported my proposal. So we sat there and had our lunch. After some time we again resumed our trek. Our guide was very good. He suggested that after a few kilometres ahead in the core area of “Singalila National Park” there was another shepherd’s hut which he knew beforehand. So we could spend the night over there. It’s a very good suggestion. We walked and walked ceaselessly. Before evening set in, we came to that location. A small thatched log house stood alone amidst the jungle with a small open field in front of it. Indeed it’s a very good camping ground with the facility of water from a fountain nearby. When we reached there no shepherd was seen around. We decided to pitch our tent on one side of the ground. Our guide lit up a fire to prepare tea. I helped Sunil to pitch our tent and arrange our belongings inside the tent. Meanwhile two shepherds came down from uphill with a herd of cattle and sheeps and joined us. We also offered them tea. Now it’s the right time to enjoy the tea and snacks. Darkness engulfed the entire jungle and the sound of different varieties of insects became louder while the songs of the birds faded out. We all were sitting at one corner of the room where our guide lit a fire. The cattles and sheeps were moving around in the adjacent field. I watched the time on my wrist watch. It’s 7 p.m. I asked Sunil whether he was ready for dinner. Sunil nodded affirmatively but he seemed to be watching carefully two cows in the field. They were pushing each other. I called our guide and handed over our non veg canned food which we brought from Kolkata. Within one hour we finished our dinner and after one more round of black coffee took shelter in our tent. After a little while our guide brought a surprise for us. He and one of the shepherds brought some roasted leg pieces of frog which they might have collected from the forest for their supper. I cordially refused it. Our guide would also spend the night with them in the loghouse. So I wished him good night and slipped into my sleeping bag. As soon as I put out my torch we were lost in the darkness of the jungle.

Must Read: Beyond The Singalila Ridge by Asis Mukherjee

Morning broke at the call of our guide. He was told to prepare tea for all of us. We got up and took our cups. It was unthinkable in that situation, as if we were lodged in a star hotel in the city. However we had to come out from the comfort of our sleeping bags. We could listen to the chirping of birds. Though sunlight couldn’t penetrate through the leafy canopy, there was enough light outside of the tent. We began to pack up our sleeping bags,rucksacks and the tent. Meanwhile our guide prepared some hot noodles for us. We ate that and we got ready to start. Our guide assured us that if we could proceed like yesterday we could easily cross the Singalila Ridge and reach Phalut today itself. But we were not confident enough because of the dense forest where no foot track was available. However we were marching at our level best. Sometimes I tried to see the sky, raising my head but only the branches of the tall trees blocked the sight. Here we couldn’t even find any space to take a rest . We were closely embraced by the trees. Moss, ferns and creepers entangled our every step. We walked and walked relentlessly. At length I suddenly caught the sight of the sky above and I exclaimed in joy. Sunil was behind me. He also got surprised and asked me,”What happened?” I just showed him the sky and told ,”We have almost come beyond the tree line.” He looked at the sky and smiled. The sight of the sky added fuel to our energy and we tried to push up vigorously. In no time we came to the top of the ridge. It’s almost barren. We unleashed our rucksacks and laid flat on the ground. After recovery from fatigue we came back to reality and got awestruck at the beauty of the surroundings. Waves of ridges spread to the horizon where stood the mighty Kanchendzonga spreading from east to the west with so many sparkling peaks. Down the slope laid the evergreen dense forests of the “Singalila National Park ” and the “Rhododendron Sanctuary” and the opposite side of the ridge was barren stretched up to Phalut. Our guide opened the flask and I brought out biscuits from my rucksack. We comfortably enjoyed our cups of tea. After a while we resumed our trek for Phalut. We gradually descended from the top of the ridge and arrived at Toriphule. We again paused for a while began to walk along the almost flat trail leading to Phalut. Within a couple of hours we reached Phalut trekkers’ hut and I asked the caretaker for lunch for the three of us. He told us that he could serve us only noodles and eggs. It’s all right after a long march. We really deserved it. We had our lunch and retired to our bed. By late afternoon trekkers from Sandakphu were coming in groups. We went outside in the courtyard to watch the sunset. The mountain and valley were looking very calm and quiet. The sun went away spreading a dark curtain on the mountain and valley. Cold winds drove us inside the trekkers’ hut. It’s now alive in the presence of a number of trekkers. We asked our guide to arrange tea for us. Shortly we composed ourselves in our bed with a hot cup of tea. Around eight in the evening we had our dinner and went to bed. We woke up the next morning and came out with a cup of tea to enjoy the sunrise. After a while we entered the kitchen and told the caretaker to prepare our breakfast. We came into the room and began to pack up our rucksacks. We already decided to follow the trail to Gorkey. Within an hour we got ready. We paid our bill to the caretaker and came out on track along with our guide. It’s an easy down hill march. We comfortably enjoyed the walk. After crossing a few turns the valley of Gorkey became visible from the slope of the hill. It looked like a picture postcard. We gradually came down and reached our destination. We had already decided to break our journey here though we walked only for two hours and a half. We also decided that we would follow the trail to Ribdi instead of the common trail leading to Rammam and Srikhola, the common route of Sandakphu and Phalut. We checked in and got a very nice room on the first floor of the trekkers’ hut. We came out and here we got a cup of coffee and sat on a rock in the courtyard. On the left side of the trekkers’ hut a beautiful fountain was cascading down to pour its water into the “Gorkey Khola” a beautiful rivulet which was running down to embrace the Rangeet river near Jorethang. We watched as the trekkers coming down from Phalut were following the trail to Rammam instead of coming down to Gorkey. They must have some urgent work or commitment. I couldn’t understand why these fellows were coming in the lap of mother nature. I also had a very tight schedule. But I kept one day reserved and that I must enjoy. We were strolling around here and there. The village was spreading on either side of the “Gorkey Khola ”. Mild sunshine on my shoulder reminded me of the famous country song of John Denver, “country roads take me home….”, which I murmured while walking. Sunil, who was walking beside me and was attentively listening to me, appreciated it with a smile. We were perhaps lost in the lap of mother nature but came back abruptly to reality at the call of our guide. He came out in search of us and called us for lunch.

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We came back to the trekkers’ hut and sat in the lobby for our lunch. Rice, dal and one mixed veg curry were served after a long time. We really enjoyed our lunch like that of our home. After lunch we packed up and paid the caretaker his dues and came out on the trail leading to Ribdi. We crossed the rivulet “Gorkey Khola” and entered into the forest. Gradually it became dense as we left behind the village. We all marched together. The trail was comparatively better than our experience of the last two days. Our guide told us that it might take three hours to reach Ribdi. We were at the last leg of our adventure. A slight pain was pinching me at the corner of my heart for leaving this place. We didn’t know when we could come again in this solitude amidst the virgin forest and among the simple innocent people of the hill. There was no scope to rest for a while. We walked on and on until the forest became thinner. Gradually the small cottages and houses became visible through the leafy branches of the trees. We came up on the village road and paused for a while and looked around. Gradually we appeared at the house of our familiar host. Our guide yelled his name and he peeped from the window and came out to welcome us. We entered the room and kept our rucksacks at one corner. Our host brought tea for us and he informed us that he would prepare rice and eggs for us. We all sat together with tea and biscuits in the courtyard of the house. We paid our guide and told him to have lunch with us. Tomorrow we shall leave this place. A feeling of detachment from this place pains my heart as if I’m leaving my very own place. On the other hand a dream of coming back again in the lap of mother nature soothes my wounds and consoles my heart.

Lonely Planet Travelogue by Asis Mukherjee

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“Summer kisses winter tears”, and we, four, responded the summon of the mountain. We four, myself, and my friends cum colleagues, Pradip, Swapan, and Pradip’s neighbor, a senior person, a gazette officer always wearing a mask of gravity of his position, set out for our very familiar and famous Sandakphu and Phalut route. April didn’t be full us, rather we were overwhelmed with ecstasy in the abundance of nature’s gift for what trekkers around the world gather here every year. Upto Sandakphu, it was a tailor – made journey.

But the surprise was hidden for us beyond that. We reached Sandakphu on the scheduled day of our itinerary and after a shivering night the dawn appeared to unveil the face of the great “Sleeping Budda” with the magic of colour. We stood purpled in the blowing wind to witness the magic of nature and felt as if lost in the vastness of the universe. After being rejuvenated in the warmth of the kitchen and perpetual service of tea we got our nerve back to normal.

Must Read: Straight From the Heart by Asis Mukherjee

After a heavy breakfast, we set out around eight in the morning. It was a very cool but pleasant weather all around. Today’s is the longest march from Sandakphu to Fhalut about twenty-one kilometers. But the trail was almost flat at an altitude of 11000 feet above sea level. After a continuous march of four hours, I found two young foreigners resting before the ruins of a burnt forest bungalow. When I reached, I was cordially greeted by them. I unleashed my rucksack and sat beside them. I could hardly recognise the place, until they confirmed that it was Sabarkum, where once upon a time there was a forest rest house which was set to fire by the followers of Subhash Ghissing as a part of their agitation. Soon we became friends. The young man coming from Holland was a florist and the other one was a young lady of Canada came presently came from Bangladesh on her way back to home. She was a student on her research work, came to Bangladesh for 6 months on a project to train the fisherman there about modern technique of fishing and breeding culture.

I observed that they were concentrating on a voluminous book. When asked they laid out the book towards me and told that they were planning to have a break there and they would put up in a trekker nearby which they found in the book and the name of the place was Moley. I was surprised at the information because before commencement of our journey I gathered latest information of the route from the office of Tourism Department, Government of West Bengal at Dalhousie Square Kolkata. Off course I didn’t find any information of either forest Bunglow or trekkers hut in their information brochure. I took the book and found in the marked page a notation of a forest bungalow and detailed information of the location which was just a furlong away from our resting place. I observed that it is a travel guide of India published by ” Lonely Planet “. The Dutchman came to India with it, with an eye to roaming the land for six months. I was not only surprised, but also ashamed of my ignorance about my own land. The “lonely planet” opened another world before me which was situated very near to me but far away from my knowledge.

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Instantly I made up my mind to break the journey and rest at Moley because my companions were far behind, and they must be fatigued when they would come. I told them likewise and they also greeted me to rejoin them at Moley. We shook hand and they approached for Moley. After a while, when my friend appeared at my resting place with leaden feet dragging the fatigued bodies and loads on their back, they got a bit surprised seeing me sitting alone in that desolate place in front of the ruined bungalow. But soon they got rejuvenated when they heard me calling it a day and we would rest at Moley forest bungalow, our new destination of the day. After a little rest we all started for Moley and in fifteen minutes’ walk downhill when we reached the forest rest house, I thank almighty for introducing me with “Lonely Planet”.

Must Read: Just Another Day in Paradise (Sikkim) Asis Mukherjee

Step By Step Towards The Hill by Asis Mukherjee

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When autumn breeze starts blowing and the sky turns azure and clouds like combed cotton sway, I can hear the call of the Himalaya to my inner ear every year. It almost bends me to pack up and set out for the hill responding it’s becon. That year also I set out for a sojourn to Sikkim, our neighbouring state abundant with lustrous beauty of nature, accompanied by my colleague turned friend P. K. Deb. The North Bengal bound train brought us to New Jalpaiguri Station in a sunny morning and we headed for “SNT” bus stand at Siliguri. After a brief pause for tea and snacks, we set out for Rabongla, a small but calm and clean town in the South Sikkim District.

Our bus took around four hours to reach Rabongla via Jorethung and Namchi. We alighted from the bus and checked in a nearby hotel. Rabongla is a small town very clean and quiet opposite to the towering Maenam hill. Occupying our room in the hotel and having our lunch we two set out for a stroll around the town and then we came across another group of four mountain lovers from Konnagar and Uttarpara who came and put up in the same hotel an hour before we reached. They also came with an eye to exploring the Maenam hill and surroundings. So we easily tied up with friendship and marching together revised our plan for the next day. After a brief stroll around we came back to our hotel and all sat down in the lounge with coffee. We checked our ration for the next day and after distribution packed it. After that we spent a nice evening in gossiping and exchanging our experiences until dinner. We went to our rooms after dinner at about nine p.m.

Next day morning we woke up early as usual and packed up our rucksacks and assembled at the lounge of the hotel. While having our breakfast we ordered packed lunch for us. We set out around nine in the morning and soon we took a zigzag foot track leading towards Meanam hill. It’s a reserved forest around thirty seven square kilometers and the height of the hill is twelve thous itand five hundred feet above sea level. As we gained altitude the forest became dense. Varieties of trees and hurbs are in abundant for nature lovers and botanists. After a couple of hours trek we saw a watch tower amidst the jungle. We paused for a while for rest. We climbed the tower and watched around. Someone of us proposed to spend the night over there. But we so far crossed only half of the way so the proposal was immidiately turned down and we resumed our march. We already gathered information that there’s a little monestery at the top of the hill. After four hours and a half we covered a distance of twelve kilometers and reached the top of the hill where we discovered a disolate monestery amidst the dense forest. The surrounding was clear and two rooms of the monestery was shut but not locked. So we easily occupied the front room and rearranged our belongings and came outside with our packed lunch to devour it and rejuvenate our fatigued body. Afterwards so long the daylight prevailed we explored the surrounding and all of a sudden we discovered the “Bhaledunga”, the famous cliff where from the “Tista” river could be seen flowing far below the gorge. The height of the cliff from the river bed was around five thousand feet and the view was breathtaking. Before dark we returned our temporary nest. As evening fell the entire jungle sank into deep darkness of the night. Only the canopy of the starry sky was visible. We lit a small fire fortea and warmth also. Encircling the ‘bon fire’ with steaming tea mug in hand we absorbed in chatting and singing. Beyond our vibrant presence amidst the dense forest there was no sign of life. We were trying our best to break the silence and darkness around us but in vain. So after two rounds of tea perpetually, we set to prepare noodles for our dinner. We finished our dinner and slipped into sleeping bags at around seven thirty in the evening which seemed to early in our usual city life. But due to tiredness we soon lost in to sleep. Next morning we woke up too early and instead of morning tea or breakfast we packed up hastily and began to discend at rapid pace. We rushed back to our hotel at Rabongla in less than two hours. We ordered for tea and breakfast and refreshed ourselves.

After a brief pause we took the service jeep bound for Namchi. At Damthang we alighted from the jeep and the jeep took a turn and disappeared. Damthang is a small village at the foot of Tandong hill. Before starting for our new destination, we assembled before a multipurpose shop and ordered for tea. Meanwhile were trying to gather some information of the Tandong forest and the Gompha. An old man sitting in front of was also watching us and he suggested to wrap our feet with tobacco leaves to get rid of leaches in the forest. We were, indeed, not prepared for this. We expressed our thanks and bought some tobacco leaves from the nearby shop and wrapped it on our foot. We bought some rice and packets of biscuits and sugar for our tea and lunch. It’s one hour and a half trek through the reserve forest of Tandong to reach the top of the hill. So we finished our tea and started for our new destination leasurely. As we entered into the forest varieties of trees and bushes engulfed us. The trunks and branches of the trees were heavily festooned with clinging beard like moss. Yarning for sunlight vines clambered up the tree trunks. Gigantic ferns took the shape of garden umbrellas. Sunlight filtered through the thick canopy of trees created patterns of shades in the jungle. Insects trilled and rasped, leaves whispered, little creatures walked the underbush leaving ripples of rustling and birds whistled their territorial claims. We paused for a while to check our feet and found leaches trying to grasp our feet through the holes of the lace of the shoes. Some of my friends got panic stricken but we were well guarded by the bandage off the tobacco leaves. We were forced to speed up to get rid of this insects. Shortly we reached the top of the Tandong hill at an altitude of eight thousand five hundred feet above sea level.

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Amidst the dense forest on the plateau there stood a three storied high observation tower and two small monasteries an old one and the other under construction. A young lama welcomed us. Initially we thought to spend the night at the veranda of the watch tower. But later we changed our minds to honour the request of the lama and occupied the newly constructed monastery. The lama a very hospitable man offered us tea. Tandong has a unique location. Though it’s only eight thousand five hundred feet high but it offers a spectacular view of the surroundings. Perhaps no other place in Sikkim offers a better panoramic view of the mountain ranges in the State than Tandong. It’s like sitting in centre of a huge amphitheatre. On the east one can see the full Chola Range, on the west the Singalila Range and the towering Kanchendzonga. In the north east can be seen the Paunhri peak with surrounding mountains. Darjeeling, Gyalshing, Nathula, a part of Gangtok and the rolling plains of Siliguri can be visible from here. Both sunrise and sunset are simply breathtaking. From other parts of Sikkim Tandong looks like a volcano and legend has it that it was once an active volcano which is now dormant. Besides all these there is another legend of the Lepcha tribe that saved itself on its summit during the great deluge that once inundated the world. The story has a resemblance with that of Noah and his Ark and Mount Arrarat which Tandong is said to be. Tandong is also worshipped by the Lepchas in a festival called “Tandong Lho Rum Faat” which literally means “Worship of Tandong”.

We heard all these stories of Tandong from the Lama while we were preparing our lunch. We prepared rice. We brought tinned fish curry with us. So we had a very homely lunch after quite few days. The veranda of the Tower where we settled initially was specious enough for us. Amidst the jungle surrounded by mountain we had our lunch which we would never forget. After lunch laid down on our mattress and relaxed ay enjoyed our temporary kingdom until sunset. It was a memorable moments we could treasure in our books and volume of our memory for ever. We were mesmerized by nature. We could see the sun woke up in Bhutan and crossing over the Kanchendzonga went to Nepal for rest leaving behind several colours bands of colours. As sun set we rearranged our belongings and took shelter in the newly constructed monastery. We lit two candles inside and outside in the courtyard lit a fire for tea. With the sunset the entire jungle slipped into silence. The cacophony of birds and insects sank into silence. Besides all these there is another legend of the Lepcha tribe that saved itself on its summit during the great deluge that once inundated the world. The story has a resemblance to that of Noah and his Ark and Mount Arrarat which Tandong is said to be. Tandong is also worshipped by the Lepchas in a festival called “Tandong Lho Rum Faat” which means “Worship of Tandong”.

We heard all these stories of Tandong hill from our the Lama while preparing our lunch. We prepay rice and we brought tinned fish curry with us. So we had a very homely lunch after quite a few days. The veranda of the Tower where we settled initially was specious enough for us. Amidst the forest surrounded by mountains we had our lunch that we could never forget. After lunch we laid down on our mattress and relaxed and enjoyed our temporary kingdom until sunset. It was a memorable moment that we could treasure in our books and volumes of memory for ever. We were mesmerized by nature. We could see the sun woke up at Bhutan and crossing over the Kanchendzonga went to Nepal for rest leaving behind several bands of colours. As sun set we rearranged our belongings and took shelter in a newly constructed room of the Gompha. We lit a candle inside the room and outside in the courtyard lit a small fire for preparation of tea. With the sunset entire jungle slipped into silence. The cacophony of birds and insects also sank into silence.

Sitting indoor with tea we absorbed in chatting. Time moved on leaden feet. Darkness engulfed the entire area of the courtyard and the jungle. After a while one of friends went outside and called us. Someone asked “what’s up?” He didn’t reply but pointed at the sky. We looked up and saw a starry canopy above us and the milkyway spread from East to West. On the earth a heavy curtain of darkness wrapped us with everything around. Sometimes the calls of different creatures we’re breaking the sound silence. Altogether it’s an uncanny ambience around us. All of a sudden one of us spotted the bright beam of light of his four cell tourch aiming to a sound coming from a nearby tree and drew our attention to a Himalayan flying squirrel. We all stood perplexed watching the small creature stuck to the branch of a tree. Suddenly it took a flight stretching its wings glided a few yards and vanished into the darkness. It was a unique experience to all of us. After a while we came inside the room. We had our dinner early as usual and kept all our dishes and utensils outside in the courtyard for washing next morning. We closed the door and laid down on our mattress. Night was still young and we were gossiping. Suddenly a tapping sound on the rock outside drew our attention. We became cautious and stopped talking. Yes, it’s there. Outside in the courtyard a marching sound of hoofs on the rocky floor was very distinct now. What could it be? We left our bed very cautiously and leaning against the window peeped outside. To our utter surprise we discovered a herd of seven or eight spotted deer we’re moving around in the courtyard. They turned up here for rice gruel and rice which we left while preparing our lunch. We didn’t disturb them and quietly shut the window and came back to our bed. But two consecutive thrilling experiences kept us excited for a long time before sleep.

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Next day morning we woke up early to witness the sunrise from the watch tower.
Many of us have the experience to watch sunrise from the Tiger Hill in Darjeeling. In that case we have to move from Darjeeling by taxi or jeep during the dead hours of the day for Tiger Hill. But here we were at the top of your Hill. We all slowly moved through the veil of mist towards the watch tower. Darkness gradually faded out and then sky was brightening before the sun appeared on the eastern horizon of the mountain range of Bhutan. The vastness of the snow peaks before us spreading from eats to west was beyond expression. We all stood motionless as the first ray of the sun touched Mount Kanchendzonga and with its first touch it turned pink. One after another peak enlightened with the touch of sunshine and began to change colour from pink to golden and at last bright silver. We were watching the magic of nature as if we were hypnotized for the time being. When the entire range of the mountain became dazling in bright sunshine and the jungle around us woke up we came back to reality. We discended gradually from the tower and in the courtyard another surprise was waiting for us. A group of yellow beak “Chough” and “Blue Magpie” thronged around the courtyard. They were also drawn here because of rice left last night along with our utensils and plates in the courtyard. At the sound of our arrival they disappeared in the forest in a twinkle of an eye. But before they disappeared they quenched our thirst for nature. We came back to our nest and tried to prepare morning tea. After all these mesmerizing trances we had to come to our usual routine of life. Because we would leave this place now. We would go down to the world of our everyday life alienated from the soothing touch of mother nature.

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Just Another Day in Paradise (Sikkim) Asis Mukherjee

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A smooth drive of three hours and a half through Mahananda Sanctuary took us from New Jalpaiguri Station to Jorethung a pivotal town of West Sikkim. A small lunch break at a moderate restaurant; meanwhile we managed to book our seats in the commander service jeep bound for Utterey, a small hamlet in the West Sikkim. After having our lunch we, a four member team from Kolkata, occupied our seats and the jeep started at about 1-30 p.m. for Utterey. Though in bengali the name signifies a point in the north but actually the small village situates at the farthest point of West Sikkim bordering Nepal.

In the tourist map of Sikkim this place has not yet gained any status of so-called tourist spot like Gangtok, Yumthang or Pelling. In fact, Pelling has now become overthronged by hotels and you may come across familiar face while staying there during peak season. Moreover the crowd of tourists sometimes seems to break the tranquility of the mountain. And that is main reason which drove us to s new place in the familiar hill for peace and solace of mind for a couple of days.

So for the next four hours we drove through the hills and dales along the course of “Little Rangeet” towards it’s upper valley. We left behind the confluence of “Rangeet” and “Rammam” St Jorethung. After more than a couple of hours non-stop drive we arrived at “Sinshore Bridge”, a long spectacular suspension bridge on “Sinshore Khola” and named after it. It is one of the highest suspension bridge in Asia and famous tourist spot as well. Tourists from Pelling thronged around on local sight seeing. We crossed the bridge and drove further five kilometers. Our jeep stopped at the doorstep of “Green Valley Resort”. As we checked in the hotel, evening set in the valley.

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The morning wore a bright sunny face and we woke up at starting sound of the service-jeeps. This is the only throb of life we faced here. After the three service jeeps left for their different destinations, the valley again slipped into silence. Opposite to our hotel a lonely young shopkeeper went on playing his guitar and singing all by himself in front of his shop kept open. Only a few passersby stopped for a while perhaps attracted by his music. A beautiful scene that would remind you “The Solitary Reaper” of William Wordsworth. The only motorable road proceeds further towards the West. The river is not visible from this point, however if you walk a few yards up or down hill you will hear it’s rumbling sound from below the gorge. The valley is stretched towards south and there , at the far end if the cultivable field, where the wall of the hill rises erect , stands a beautiful temple of Goddess Durga. On the hill top there is a small Gompha. An easy concrete foot track would take you at the hill top. We passed the day leasurely just strolling around. Though everybody around was engaged in brisk businesses of life, silence reigned supreme in the whole valley.

During the dead hours of the next day we set out for Chitre along the upstream of the “Little Rangeet”. It was around four to five hours trek uphill towards Chiwabhanjan depending upon your stamina and load on your back. Towards the end of the village approximately half a mile from the hotel we came across a “Trout Breading Centre” of the Fisheries Department. Our foot track came to the river-bed and we could see the stretch of green cultivated field and beautiful houses on the other bank of the river. Gradually we entered through cardamom bush into the deep of the woods and as we marched forward the forest became more and more dense. The river was flowing down by the side of our trail. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of it; sometimes we we could hear its music. Huge trees of a wide varieties engulfed us. Everywhere it was moistened and faint sunbeams filtered through the leafy canopy overhead. We walked together because of the fear of wild bear. After four hours of continuous trek we came to an open space amidst the dense forest. The forest bunglow of “Chitre” stood like a picture postcard at the far end. Deep green ridges encircled the area giving it a shape of bowl. The rest house, completely made of wood, was a piece of unique craftsmanship. The whole area was disolate and quiet. A few yaks we’re grazing nearby. Apart from that there was no sign of movement. The gurgling sound of the stream that formed the “Little Rangeet” was heard but the stream was not visible. We stepped in the balcony and found the doors of the bunglow locked. The entire melieu would create an uncanny feeling in you as depicted in “The Listeners” by Walter De La Mare. Yet you would be bound to fall in love of this place and could hardly resist the desire to spend a moonlit night in this forest rest house.

But alas! We were bound to retreat. After an hour’s rest and having consumed our packed lunch and coffee we resumed our return journey for Utterey. Chiwabhanjan is an hour’s trek uphill from this point. But our’s route had now become familiar. We began to descend down and down along the course of the “Little Rangeet”. We observed that two streams from Chiwabhanjan range formed the beautiful river. The sign of the village appeared when the clock struck 4-30 p.m. The last leg of our trek seemed to be endless but at length we came back to our lodge with leaden feet. It is advisable to spend a night at Chitre. Next day morning we bade good bye to this paradise and left for Pelling. That is a familiar place; a familiar story. But our longing for staying just another day in Paradise remained for ever vibrant in our hearts.

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