“No autumn breeze,
No falling leaves,
Not even time for birds to
Fly to southern skies…..”
In fact it’s just like another ordinary day of autumn when those lines of the song of Stevie Wonder haunted me time and again. I knew the reason behind it as well as the answer also. I would have to breathe in the lap of the Himalaya for a couple of days. So I made up my mind to set out for the hills and before booking a ticket I just knocked on my senior colleague cum friend Sunil Sen and he also stood up immediately on one toe at my proposal. So we two set out one day evening after office hours heading for Sikkim, my favourite destination for a week. October already brought the fragrance of “Durga Puja” in the air. But before that, we started with a tight itinerary so that we could come back home before the festival. The reason for choosing our destination to Sikkim was not only because of our short schedule but also every time I had the scope of exploring new destinations in this small state as well. This time I also had a plan to explore the forest namely “The Rhododendron Sanctuary” in Sikkim and “The Singalila National Park“ in West Bengal. Both the forests are inseparable part of the Singalila range. Sunil didn’t visit Sikkim earlier though he trekked for a long time. So on the train I briefed him on my idea in a nutshell.
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Next morning our train reached New Jalpaiguri Station in time. We came out and took a rickshaw to the SNTC bus stand at Siliguri. We came to the bus stand and booked two tickets for Jorethang, a small town at the confluence of the Rammam and Rangeet rivers, in the South Sikkim District. After having tea and snacks we took our seats. The bus started at eight in the morning and normally it took three hours and a half though the distance was around ninety kilometres only. So we expected to reach our destination around twelve by the latest. Sunil asked me what’s next. I told him, “Let’s see after reaching the destination.” Though I told him my plan, yet he got confused at every turn of the journey. He was perhaps not accustomed to the flexibility of my schedule of journey. In fact I myself was not sure whether we would get any transportation from Jorethang to Ribdi, immediately after reaching there. I had a plan that if we didn’t get any transportation today itself we would stay there and next morning we should proceed further. In fact I used to keep at least one reserve day in my journey schedule for uncertainty. Our bus dropped us off at the bus stand at around twelve and after descending from the bus we looked for the bus for Ribdi. Luckily we found the only bus bound for Ribdi was waiting there. We bought two tickets for ourselves and went to a restaurant on the opposite side of the bus stand for our lunch. The bus started at 1.30 p.m. for Ribdi. The distance was around forty five kilometres. But due to the condition of the road it would take around two hours. The bus took us via Sombaria and Daramdin to Ribdi. Ribdi (8000 feet) is a picturesque remote village in the southwest Sikkim perched on the slope of a hill. We came out from the bus and brought down our rucksacks from the rooftop. I began to march along the foot track down the slope followed by Sunil. I entered a house. I knew the owner beforehand. Previous year I came here with an eye to going to Versey along with my two senior friends. Then we put up here. Though Versey has nowadays become popular among tourists and trekkers, by that time there was no hotel or lodging here. I had to manage to stay at the home of a local man for one night before we started for Versey the next morning. Sunil might have been a bit astonished. But when I introduced him to the owner of the house he felt comfortable. We were given a room where we put our rucksacks. I asked my host to give us a cup of tea and also requested him to arrange a guide who could lead us through the dense forest of the Singalila National Park and the Rhododendron Sanctuary. After having our tea we all three set out for a troll with an eye to getting a reliable guide. Our host assured me that he would come back soon with a man and introduce me to him. So I felt relaxed and told Sunil not to be worried. From here one could see the trail of Ramnam on the opposite bank of the Ramman river. We could listen to the gurgling sound of the Rammam river, coming from the gorge but we couldn’t see its flow. After a short stroll we returned to our nest and found our host had already brought a young man who would accompany us on the next few days’ trek. We talked to him and told him that he would not only guide us to reach Phalut crossing the great Singalila Ridge but also carry a light load of our tent and packed food for us for a couple of days. He gladly accepted our proposal and after having tea he assured to turn up next morning and he left. After his leaving we rearranged our rucksacks. Our host called us for dinner and we finished it at around 7.30 p.m. As usual we went to bed early.
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Early in the morning we woke up at the call of our host with a steaming cup of tea. We finished our tea and got ready. Meanwhile our guide also turned up. We paid some money to our host and bid goodbye on our way to Varsey(10,100 feet). This is a motorable road under construction upto Hilley. So we walked very comfortably. The forest rest house at Hilley provided us with tea and a splendid view of Mount Kanchendzonga. After a brief pause we started our journey again. From here Versey is only around five kilometres. The trail passed through the dense forest of Silver Fir,Hemlock, Magnolia and different varieties of Rhododendron. But this is not the season of bloom. In April and May the Rhododendron creates a riot of colours in the forest. In another two hours of enjoyable walking we reached Versey. There’s a beautiful lodge aptly named “The Rhododendron Resort” or “Gurascunj” , the Nepalese term of Rhododendron. We checked into the rest house and asked the caretaker to prepare lunch for all of us. In the month of April and May Versey fills your heart with the beauty of varieties of flowers along with the vast view of the “Sleeping Buddha” or Mount Kanchendzonga. But now though it’s not the time to bloom, we were blessed with the view of a great range of the Himalaya from the east of Bhutan to the far west of Nepal covering a wide panoramic view of Kanchendzonga to Mount Everest. Sunil got awe struck in the vastness of nature. We soon came to reality at the call of the caretaker to have our lunch. After lunch we retired to our bed to rest for a couple of hours. Sunil perhaps didn’t enjoy such a comfortable trek earlier. So he appreciated my selection of the trip. After a couple of hours rest, we came out and sat in the courtyard of the forest rest house to behold the sunset. Indeed it’s so beautiful that I couldn’t express my feelings in words. Only the beholder can preserve his feelings in the niche of his heart. After the sunset when all the birds went to their nest, we also came to our room and asked the caretaker to prepare tea. With a steaming cup of tea we had another round of discussion with our guide. He suggested that next morning we would set out for “Thulo Dhap” , a good location for camping amidst this “Rhododendron Sanctuary” and the day after tomorrow we would proceed to cross the Singalila Ridge. After a while the caretaker called us for dinner. We finished our dinner and went to bed.
We woke up at the call of our guide. We told him to call us before dawn so that we could see the sunrise from Versey. Different places of the Himalaya always give you a different experience of watching the sunrise. As if the same sun brings different colours of dawn. Each experience is invaluable. We came outside. Everywhere a calmness prevailed. Gentle wind was blowing from the north. Birds were yet to come out of their nests. The entire valley was still under the curtain of a black sheet. Gradually the first sunbeam touched the head of the “Sleeping Budha” and one after another the peaks of the Himalaya smiled in delight. The black curtain gradually drifted and the entire surroundings woke up to the songs of the birds of different varieties. We came back with soothing tranquillity to our room to pack our rucksacks. The caretaker served the first round of tea. We were getting ready for our journey to the unknown. After having our breakfast and another round of tea we packed our rucksacks and took a packed lunch on the way. We paid the caretaker and came out of the resthouse. We began to follow our guide along the foot track and entered into the forest of the “Rhododendron Sanctuary”. Today again we had to descend from 10,100 feet to 8,000 feet to reach “Thulo Dhap”. It’s a meadow amidst the jungle. There are so many small meadows like this in this area. Local people used to bring their cattles and sheeps there for grazing. As we proceeded through the forest it became more and more dense. But we both were just following our guide who was leading ahead. Both of us couldn’t understand how he was on the right track. However we had to depend on him. After descending a few kilometres abruptly we came to an open field. Our guide told me this was “Thulo Dhap”. But so far we walked for two hours and a half. I told him ” we should have our lunch here and after taking some rest we should proceed further. Because we have to ascend again from here more than 11,000 feet if we have to cross the Singalila Ridge. So if we can proceed further it will be easier to cover the rest of the trek next day”. Sunil also supported my proposal. So we sat there and had our lunch. After some time we again resumed our trek. Our guide was very good. He suggested that after a few kilometres ahead in the core area of “Singalila National Park” there was another shepherd’s hut which he knew beforehand. So we could spend the night over there. It’s a very good suggestion. We walked and walked ceaselessly. Before evening set in, we came to that location. A small thatched log house stood alone amidst the jungle with a small open field in front of it. Indeed it’s a very good camping ground with the facility of water from a fountain nearby. When we reached there no shepherd was seen around. We decided to pitch our tent on one side of the ground. Our guide lit up a fire to prepare tea. I helped Sunil to pitch our tent and arrange our belongings inside the tent. Meanwhile two shepherds came down from uphill with a herd of cattle and sheeps and joined us. We also offered them tea. Now it’s the right time to enjoy the tea and snacks. Darkness engulfed the entire jungle and the sound of different varieties of insects became louder while the songs of the birds faded out. We all were sitting at one corner of the room where our guide lit a fire. The cattles and sheeps were moving around in the adjacent field. I watched the time on my wrist watch. It’s 7 p.m. I asked Sunil whether he was ready for dinner. Sunil nodded affirmatively but he seemed to be watching carefully two cows in the field. They were pushing each other. I called our guide and handed over our non veg canned food which we brought from Kolkata. Within one hour we finished our dinner and after one more round of black coffee took shelter in our tent. After a little while our guide brought a surprise for us. He and one of the shepherds brought some roasted leg pieces of frog which they might have collected from the forest for their supper. I cordially refused it. Our guide would also spend the night with them in the loghouse. So I wished him good night and slipped into my sleeping bag. As soon as I put out my torch we were lost in the darkness of the jungle.
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Morning broke at the call of our guide. He was told to prepare tea for all of us. We got up and took our cups. It was unthinkable in that situation, as if we were lodged in a star hotel in the city. However we had to come out from the comfort of our sleeping bags. We could listen to the chirping of birds. Though sunlight couldn’t penetrate through the leafy canopy, there was enough light outside of the tent. We began to pack up our sleeping bags,rucksacks and the tent. Meanwhile our guide prepared some hot noodles for us. We ate that and we got ready to start. Our guide assured us that if we could proceed like yesterday we could easily cross the Singalila Ridge and reach Phalut today itself. But we were not confident enough because of the dense forest where no foot track was available. However we were marching at our level best. Sometimes I tried to see the sky, raising my head but only the branches of the tall trees blocked the sight. Here we couldn’t even find any space to take a rest . We were closely embraced by the trees. Moss, ferns and creepers entangled our every step. We walked and walked relentlessly. At length I suddenly caught the sight of the sky above and I exclaimed in joy. Sunil was behind me. He also got surprised and asked me,”What happened?” I just showed him the sky and told ,”We have almost come beyond the tree line.” He looked at the sky and smiled. The sight of the sky added fuel to our energy and we tried to push up vigorously. In no time we came to the top of the ridge. It’s almost barren. We unleashed our rucksacks and laid flat on the ground. After recovery from fatigue we came back to reality and got awestruck at the beauty of the surroundings. Waves of ridges spread to the horizon where stood the mighty Kanchendzonga spreading from east to the west with so many sparkling peaks. Down the slope laid the evergreen dense forests of the “Singalila National Park ” and the “Rhododendron Sanctuary” and the opposite side of the ridge was barren stretched up to Phalut. Our guide opened the flask and I brought out biscuits from my rucksack. We comfortably enjoyed our cups of tea. After a while we resumed our trek for Phalut. We gradually descended from the top of the ridge and arrived at Toriphule. We again paused for a while began to walk along the almost flat trail leading to Phalut. Within a couple of hours we reached Phalut trekkers’ hut and I asked the caretaker for lunch for the three of us. He told us that he could serve us only noodles and eggs. It’s all right after a long march. We really deserved it. We had our lunch and retired to our bed. By late afternoon trekkers from Sandakphu were coming in groups. We went outside in the courtyard to watch the sunset. The mountain and valley were looking very calm and quiet. The sun went away spreading a dark curtain on the mountain and valley. Cold winds drove us inside the trekkers’ hut. It’s now alive in the presence of a number of trekkers. We asked our guide to arrange tea for us. Shortly we composed ourselves in our bed with a hot cup of tea. Around eight in the evening we had our dinner and went to bed. We woke up the next morning and came out with a cup of tea to enjoy the sunrise. After a while we entered the kitchen and told the caretaker to prepare our breakfast. We came into the room and began to pack up our rucksacks. We already decided to follow the trail to Gorkey. Within an hour we got ready. We paid our bill to the caretaker and came out on track along with our guide. It’s an easy down hill march. We comfortably enjoyed the walk. After crossing a few turns the valley of Gorkey became visible from the slope of the hill. It looked like a picture postcard. We gradually came down and reached our destination. We had already decided to break our journey here though we walked only for two hours and a half. We also decided that we would follow the trail to Ribdi instead of the common trail leading to Rammam and Srikhola, the common route of Sandakphu and Phalut. We checked in and got a very nice room on the first floor of the trekkers’ hut. We came out and here we got a cup of coffee and sat on a rock in the courtyard. On the left side of the trekkers’ hut a beautiful fountain was cascading down to pour its water into the “Gorkey Khola” a beautiful rivulet which was running down to embrace the Rangeet river near Jorethang. We watched as the trekkers coming down from Phalut were following the trail to Rammam instead of coming down to Gorkey. They must have some urgent work or commitment. I couldn’t understand why these fellows were coming in the lap of mother nature. I also had a very tight schedule. But I kept one day reserved and that I must enjoy. We were strolling around here and there. The village was spreading on either side of the “Gorkey Khola ”. Mild sunshine on my shoulder reminded me of the famous country song of John Denver, “country roads take me home….”, which I murmured while walking. Sunil, who was walking beside me and was attentively listening to me, appreciated it with a smile. We were perhaps lost in the lap of mother nature but came back abruptly to reality at the call of our guide. He came out in search of us and called us for lunch.
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We came back to the trekkers’ hut and sat in the lobby for our lunch. Rice, dal and one mixed veg curry were served after a long time. We really enjoyed our lunch like that of our home. After lunch we packed up and paid the caretaker his dues and came out on the trail leading to Ribdi. We crossed the rivulet “Gorkey Khola” and entered into the forest. Gradually it became dense as we left behind the village. We all marched together. The trail was comparatively better than our experience of the last two days. Our guide told us that it might take three hours to reach Ribdi. We were at the last leg of our adventure. A slight pain was pinching me at the corner of my heart for leaving this place. We didn’t know when we could come again in this solitude amidst the virgin forest and among the simple innocent people of the hill. There was no scope to rest for a while. We walked on and on until the forest became thinner. Gradually the small cottages and houses became visible through the leafy branches of the trees. We came up on the village road and paused for a while and looked around. Gradually we appeared at the house of our familiar host. Our guide yelled his name and he peeped from the window and came out to welcome us. We entered the room and kept our rucksacks at one corner. Our host brought tea for us and he informed us that he would prepare rice and eggs for us. We all sat together with tea and biscuits in the courtyard of the house. We paid our guide and told him to have lunch with us. Tomorrow we shall leave this place. A feeling of detachment from this place pains my heart as if I’m leaving my very own place. On the other hand a dream of coming back again in the lap of mother nature soothes my wounds and consoles my heart.
